Welcome to Short Walks, Long Paths.

This walk covers a very scenic section of the Wales Coast Path in South Wales on the Glamorgan Heritage Coast. It’s an opportunity to explore a varied landscape of dramatic cliffs, striking rock formations, unspoilt bays, rolling countryside and some historical landmarks along the way. The walk distance is just over 9 miles, ‘point to point’.

Parking and Start Point

To reach the start point by car, from Ewenny Road / B4265 turn onto Heol Las Lane to Monknash. Turn into the lane past the Plough and Harrow Pub and continue down as far as New Mill Farm. Opposite the farm is a field for car parking, cost £3 (at time of writing) with an honesty box positioned near the gateway, so take some pound coins to ensure you’re okay to pay and park here.

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Walk Highlights

From the lane, we enter the Blaen-y cwm nature reserve for a pleasant walk towards the coast through a woodland valley with a babbling brook, a series of waterfalls and the ruins of an old mill.

On the approach to Monknash Beach, the valley opens out to grassy hillsides. For such a secluded spot it was surprisingly popular on the day, a few surfers riding the waves and walkers on the coast path.

It’s worthwhile going for a wander onto the pebbled beach and looking up at the crumbling cliff faces. Monknash has a distant history of smuggling activity and shipwrecks were once common along this coast. In recent years erosion of the cliffs has brought the grisly discovery of numerous human remains in the ground above the beach. These are thought to be burials that date back centuries, so given the place name perhaps these are the remains of monks or the long-forgotten victims of shipwrecks. So don’t be too shocked if you see bones protruding from the top of the cliffs!

From the beach we head uphill and continue on the winding clifftop trail. It’s an invigorating walk along the exposed clifftops above Traeth Mawr, with a bracing sea breeze, superb views of the dramatic coastline ahead and the sound of waves crashing on the shoreline below. Nature provided a thrilling highlight here with the sighting of a majestic peregrine falcon soaring above these cliffs.

The path meanders through a lovely valley at Nant Cwm Mawr, a pleasant walk through a sheltered and shaded woodland and a welcome change of scenery.

Emerging from the valley we continue towards the headland known as Witches Point and the site of Dunraven Castle manor. Though the path bears rightwards here, it’s worthwhile taking a short detour to a viewpoint area for some truly magnificent views of the sheer cliffs and patterned bedrock terraces of Temple Bay.

From here it’s an easy walk downhill to Southerndown, also known as Dunraven Bay, a scenic location with a wide beach and dramatic cliffs.

It’s also an ideal place for a refreshment break as there are a Heritage Coast Centre, toilets, a shop and a garden area with picnic benches.

Although the coast path is waymarked to a set of steps on the inland side of the road, we followed a well worn track up onto the clifftop. It’s not the official path, so you need to be aware and keep clear of the cliff edge, but you’ll be rewarded with a superb view across the bay.

The path continues along grassy hillsides bounded by centuries old stone walls. After passing by West Farm restaurant and retreat, further along the path drops steeply down a hillside.

Once downhill, it’s a more leisurely walk on the approach to Ogmore-by-Sea beach.

Ogmore-by-Sea is a relatively unspoilt coastal gem, which on a fine day can draw crowds of day trippers, as was the case on the day of this walk. After navigating our way around a crowded car park we walked along the bank overlooking the beach and rocky shore, watching the beachcombers exploring the many rock pools.

The coast path heads inland tracking the course of the river, above wide salt marshes of lush green vegetation, pools and streams which are a rich habitat for wildlife. A vantage point here provides a superb view to appreciate the diverse landscape and contrasts with the huge sand dunes of Merthyr Mawr across the river.

We followed the coast path along the main road as far as Ogmore Castle. At this point we took a detour into the castle grounds to explore the picturesque ruins.

The castle was built in the 12th Century by the Normans to defend the nearby Ewenny River crossing from raids by local Welsh tribes. It’s now maintained by CADW and is open to visitors daily 10am – 4 pm.

Safely across, look back across the river to admire the castle ruins.

We walked to the small suspension style footbridge leading to Merthyr Mawr village. Many homes in the village are quintessential thatched cottages set in wonderful countryside and the place gives the impression of stepping back in time to a more peaceful, by-gone age.

To complete this walk we followed the Wales Coast Path across fields to return to Ogmore Road and finished at The Watermill Pub, for the essential snacks and drinks enjoyed in the lovely beer garden.

Route Stats

We used the local bus service no 303 to return to Monknash. Check the latest Bus service timetables for up to date information on services.

Thanks for reading & until we lace up our boots again, happy wandering!